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        Monday- Saturday

 1pm - 4pm Sunday
*Hours are subject to change due to seasonal/daylight changes

 

Blueberries, raw Nutritional value per 100 g (3.5 oz)
Energy 60 kcal   240 kJ
Carbohydrates     14.5 g - Dietary fiber  2.4 g   Fat 0.3 g Protein 0.7 g Thiamine (Vit. B1)  0.04 mg   3% Riboflavin (Vit. B2)  0.04 mg   3% Niacin (Vit. B3)  0.42 mg   3% Pantothenic acid (B5)  0.1 mg  2% Vitamin B6  0.1 mg 8% Vitamin C  10 mg 17% Vitamin E  0.6 mg 4% Calcium  6 mg 1% Iron  0.3 mg 2% Magnesium  6 mg 2%  Phosphorus  12 mg 2% Potassium  77 mg   2% Zinc  0.2 mg 2% manganese 0.3 mg 20% vitamin K 19 mcg 24%
Percentages are relative to US recommendations for adults. Source: USDA Nutrient database

Gardening Info

GardeningCommunity

Vaccinium (blueberries) are members of the ericaceae, heath family.  Azaleas, rhododendrons and heather are also members.  Common factors these plants share is that they do not have a dominant taproot nor does the root system send down deep penetrating roots.  In an idea situation, this creates a shallow (roughly 6-12 inches) root zone.  In well-drained and aerated soils, it is possible for the roots to reach much deeper.  If you have been successful growing azaleas or rhododendron, you should be able to successfully grow and enjoy blueberries, either commercially or in your home garden or landscaping design.

LIGHT:  Azaleas and rhododendrons normally require some shading for protection from the hot summer sun and winter’s sudden blast; however, blueberries will grow in full shade (under mature thick trees) to full sun.  In full shade, the internodes will be more elongated, and fruit production will be less due to the lack of light required for photosynthesis.  Crop load is relative to light availability, with maximum production achieved in full sun.  There is always the extreme situation, such as sites of very intense summer sun, where some protective shade may induce healthier and more productive plants.

SITE AND SOIL PREPARATION:  Because blueberries have a shallow root system, only the top 6”-12” of soil needs to be prepared.  If you have been successful growing azaleas or rhododendrons, prepare the soil in the same way.  If you are not familiar with azaleas or rhododendron, then the following instructions should be helpful.  Site selection is of primary importance.  Do you want to grow blueberries for commercial production as your first priority, or do you want to product a hedge or plant in a specific location and produce berries as a second priority?  If your goal is to produce maximum fruit (Commercial production) then site selection is most critical and you should seek expert advice from a nursery or horticulturist.  If you wish to incorporate blueberry plants into your landscape, the soil should be prepared as follows:

 The area you choose should be well drained.  There should be no standing water. Remember, blueberries are shallow rooted and the growing medium may be mounded, therefore it is possible to place plants in normally wet areas if properly prepared.  The medium within the root zone must be aerated and maintained in an aerated condition.  The area should be free of grass and weeks.  Remember, blueberries are shallow rooted, as are grasses and weeds, which means they will be direct competition for nutrients.

With the plant site determined, place a minimum of ½ bushel of composted material on top. 
Peat moss is ideal, but any good compost such as leaves, bark, or sawdust will suffice.  This material must be composted and must have been subject to decomposition.  Work mulch into the top 8 inches of soil within a 2-3 foot diameter of each plant.  It is not necessary to mix the compost and soil into a homogeneous blend; a course mixture is acceptable.  This should provide a growing medium in the root zone area of about ½ to 2/3 compost and ½ to 1/3 soil.  This will also leave the planting area mounded slightly.

SPACING AND PLANTING:  Spacing can be decided on before or after site selection, depending upon the particular situation.  Spacing within a row may average from 3-6 feet, dependent upon personal preference.  Three feet will give a high density planting and form a hedge quickly, 5-6 feet is the average distance between plants.  Plants can also be grouped, separated as singles or planted within almost any landscape configuration.

In the center of the prepared mound, rake back a flat area about 3-4 inches deep with sufficient width to accommodate the roots of the plants when spread out flat.  If the plant is in a pot, it should be removed and the roots should be fanned out horizontally.  This is accomplished by shaking or washing the soil from the roots and then pulling them out into a flat configuration, resulting in a bare rooted plant, which is ideal for planting.  Whether starting with a bare root plant or potted plant, planting procedures are the same from this point.

IMPORTANT NOTE:  Do not let the roots dry out, freeze or be exposed to ultraviolet light (sunlight will kill the small fibrous roots) during this process.  Roots should be kept wrapped or covered with a damp covering until planted.

Place the plant in the center of the prepared area and fan the roots out in all directions.  While holding the plant trunk upright, rake 3-4 inches of soil mixture back over the roots and pack by stepping on.  Wet the soil sufficiently as desired relative to conditions.  If it is raining while planting then no additional water will be required to adequately wet the root zone. 

WATER:  The root zone area should always be kept moist, relative to many factors: rainfall, drainage, water table level, size of plant, fruit load, humidity, mulching, time of year, etc.  In the majority of situations, it is recommended that blueberries be irrigated, but whatever the situation; keep the root zone moist (not dry, not soggy).

A top mulch of 1-4 inches over and wider than the root zone will be helpful.  Since this material is being placed over the root zone, it is not a requirement that it be composted.  Mulching material such as sawdust, bark, chips, leaves, straw, etc. should be free of grass and weed seeds.  Such mulching will help to retain moisture in the root zone, deter weed and grass growth, add organic material to future growing medium, moderate temperature within the root zone, etc.  It can also be detrimental.  It may increase rodent population or attract other varmints due to the increased food supply of ants or grubs.  Such situations will have to be weighed and dealt with based upon the circumstances.

PH REQUIREMENTS:  There is a myth that blueberries, azaleas and rhododendrons are acid-loving plants.  The fact is that they are not acid loving, but due to certain inabilities and requirements, they need an acid medium to grow in.  Blueberries grow well in a pH of about 4.0 – 5.5.  Com post pH levels are usually low, and since compost will make up a majority of our growing medium, the root zone will most likely be in this range.  Top mulching and leaf fall will also help keep the pH at a sufficiently low level.  The roots of the blueberry plant will seek out and grow in the composted medium and mulched area, thereby staying within the desired pH area.  Try to avoid altering the soil pH with chemicals.  If the pH is too high, fertilization with acid forming fertilizers will help to bring it down gradually and safely.  If the water pH is high, and irrigation is often required, then corrective measures may need to be taken.  Contact your local horticultural agent for a remedy.  Remember, whatever works for azaleas and rhododendrons will most likely work for blueberries.

FERTILIZERS:  Fertilizers formulated for azaleas and rhododendrons are usually ideal for blueberries.  There are normally no specially formulated blueberry fertilizers on the market for the general public.  Blueberries can tolerate only small amounts of nitrogen at a time, but this important nutrient is required at all stages of growth for healthy development.  Fertilize in small amounts (relative to the leaching out of the fertilizer), or with a specially formulated slow release fertilizer.  If questions should arise as to the amount, use less.  Blueberries have been known to grow very well under good-mulched conditions with no fertilizer.

PRUNING:  Blueberries can be pruned based on personal preference.  They may be pruned to maintain a low bush or tree form, single or multiple stem, hedge, etc.  There are a few times when pruning is required.  If the roots have been damaged, the top of the plant should be pruned back to reduce the load.  If maximum production is desired, then the plant should be pruned out to open the plant to light and shaped to cover a maximum area, but not to exceed picking height.  It is also recommended that plantings be pruned free of fruit buds.  If it has not been done at the nursery, it is normally advantageous to prune 1/3 to ½ of the plant when planted.  This can be accomplished by cutting back, cutting out or a combination of both.  Otherwise, blueberries may be pruned to desired shape at any time of the year.  For minimum fruit loss, it is best to prune just at the end of the harvest season.  This method will normally allow enough new growth for fruit bud set before the first killing frost.

 Call or Email John or Andy if you have questions about your Blueberry plants.